Well positioned on a historic and touristy stretch to attract diners from near and far, MarkJoseph is more approachable than the clubby competition, but rest assured that these steaks are treated with the utmost care. The dining room looks rather masculine, flaunting chairs with plush fabric and dark brown pinstripes.

This is the kind of place where the namesake salad does away with lettuce, leaving a refreshing combo of poached shrimp, porky bits of lardons, string beans and beefsteak tomatoes. Meticulously chosen, aged and cooked steak, often served sizzling on platters for two or more, is what distinguishes this dedicated and skilled kitchen. Most meals here may be bookended by seafood platters and unapologetically decadent desserts.