MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
If it were in the middle of Manhattan, the line would be out the door, but oh how lucky Astoria is to have Mar's. This charming oyster bar seems plucked out of another century with its weathered seaside tavern décor, whitewashed walls and curving bar. You’ll feel dropped into a sun-bleached, turn-of-the-century photo. Most of the menu is given over to raw seafood and New England classics; part to Mediterranean tavern small plates like sweetbreads and steak tartare. Seafood stew, pork belly skewers and steak frites are also on offer, and striped bass shows off a fine sense of technique, but that mussel toast with its griddled sourdough brushed with butter and tucked in a bowl brimming with fresh mussels bathed in a cream sauce is love letter worthy.