With its pumpkin-colored walls, dark woodwork and vintage posters, this beloved old-school mainstay offers a menu that relishes in decadent Northern Italian cooking. Picture an array of fresh pasta and veal, richly embellished with cream, authentic cheeses or truffle-infused olive oil. The insalata bianca is a monotone-white and delightfully refreshing composition of shaved fennel, sliced artichoke hearts, chopped endive and slivered hearts of palm dressed with lemony vinaigrette and Parmigiano Reggiano, all singing with black pepper freshly ground tableside. Paccheri in salsa affumicata presents large pasta tubes draped with plum tomato sauce that has been enriched with creamy smoked mozzarella and strewn with bits of roasted eggplant.