La Grenouille is a bastion of old-world glamour and manners with an exorbitant budget for floral arrangements. Although this storied enclave still attracts a devoted following, there’s always room for locals, newbies and blinged-out tourists. Everyone looks good in this lavish space, where red velvet banquettes, polished wood veneer and softly lit tables bathe the room with rose and apricot hues. Classic and classy, this French cuisine deserves high praise. Delicate ravioli is stuffed with chopped lobster hinting of tarragon and dressed with creamy, tart beurre blanc; an exquisitely tender-seared beef filet arrives with pommes Darphin and a lick of perfect sauce au poivre; and for dessert, the île flottante is heaven under a cloud of spun caramel.