When La Esquina opened it was a breath of fresh air, offering enjoyable cuisine that stood tall among the paltry selection of Manhattan Mexican. Thankfully, the city’s south-of-the-border dining scene has evolved since then. However, this idol remains a fun and worthy option. More playground than restaurant, the multi-faceted setting takes up an iconic downtown corner and draws a hip crowd to its grab-and-go taqueria, 30-seat café and subterranean dining room-cum-bar. The spirit here is alive and kicking, with classic renditions of tortilla soup; mole negro enchiladas filled with excellently seasoned chicken; as well as carne asada starring black Angus sirloin with mojo de ajo. A baby sib in Brooklyn continues to thrive thanks to its retro vibe.