MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
Secreted within the sprawling food hall of Le District, L'Appart is not so much a dining room as a crown jewel. Designed to resemble a Parisian apartment—hence its name—a meal here feels like attending a dinner party, albeit one with potentially 28 guests. You will be handed a drink as soon as you enter and are thereafter introduced to affable chef, Nicolas Abello. Comprised of everything that its surrounding boulangerie, fromagerie, poissoinnerie and boucherie can offer, it's clear that this kitchen is intent on pushing the traditional barriers of classic French cuisine. The staff is genuinely warm and quite keen to please. From then on, things settle down into a more recognizable format. The set menu kicks off with artistic little canapés that warm up your taste buds. Imagine lobster tartare with dashi gelée or a parmesan- and Chantilly-filled round of pâte à choux. Then it's on to the lineup of dishes, made using all manner of modern technique, like the foie gras torchon with candied chestnut purée, or Colorado lamb enhanced by a bold mojo-seasoned sauce. These flavors may be unapologetically rich but are always on point-not unlike the creamy jasmine rice pudding kissed with pear sorbet.