MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
It's still salubrious to make reservations for this dining room, where a handsome three-sided counter wrapped around the open kitchen entitles guests to a front row seat and an evening of culinary distinction. Each element just works so well here: from the judicious lighting that makes everything feel more sensual, to the music (never too intrusive but far from anodyne) and the delightful servers who appear ninja-style from nowhere to be at your side when you need something. Completed dishes are handed over by the chefs, who may have perfected the bad boy/girl looks of the modern urban cook, but speak with unalloyed pride when they describe what you’re about to eat. Flavors are refined yet assured, innovative yet expertly balanced, as in the buttery dry-aged Elysian Fields lamb basted in a fish liver and anchovy sauce. Tarte Tatin is brilliantly reworked with mandarin oranges and goat's milk Gouda shavings to offset the bitterness of the rinds. The Ko Bar isn't just a pass-through on the way to the main arena; it's a complementary, yet entirely new way to experience Ko. It's also an about-face to the dining room's multi-course tasting menu, where you can pop in and order à la carte.