MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
This glossy Japanese prodigy may be settled amidst generic bodegas and low-lying storefronts, but it is an absolute jewel of a spot. Envisioned by owner, Derek Feldman, the sushi bar is headed up by master chef, Eiji Ichimura, who prepares a culinary experience for up to 20 lucky diners nightly. A sharply suited host ushers guests into an elegant space decked out in shades of gold. Designed by Scott Kester, walls are lined with textured coverings and the pale wood counter is armed with ten sienna-orange leather chairs. There are no tables and only two seatings per night—at 6:00 and 9:00 P.M.—ergo, it’s important to be punctual as the first meal ends with just enough of a break to give the chef some time to set up for his second session. A night in this master's presence is thrilling. The grit and noise from the outside will start to dim just as the soothing space and exquisite dishes begin to envelop you. Noodle-like baby squid is served in ponzu with a pinch of grated daikon for ace flavor, while slices of octopus are arranged with leeks and mustard for textural excellence. A delightfully savory monaka combining toasted nori, king crab and Hokkaido uni makes for a luxurious mouthful.