MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
Huertas is lovely—even lovelier than you might expect for its gritty location. The casual space is deep, with a long bar pouring cider or sherry, dedicated counter where a host of cured meats including jamón is sliced, and larger tables in the back. The Basque-leaning menu showcases pintxos like stuffed and batter-fried squash blossoms, duck croquetas and skewers of white anchovies with olives and pickled peppers. The selection of conservas promises the type of fare that only the Spanish can do, as in zamburiñas in a complex tomato sauce with lemon, herbs and bread topped with a heavy drizzle of mayo. A handful of larger platos round out the menu with dishes like deep-fried porgy with toasted garlic, pickled chilies and manzanilla olives.