Staten Island may swarm with Italian-American eateries, but this festive classic does a masterful job in keeping its kitchen distinct and the patrons loyal. Guiliana’s is the queen bee amid shops, catering halls, and ample competition. The interior is modest and charming, with framed pictures of smiling patrons and a fully stocked bar.

Hearty stracciatella is loaded with spinach and a comforting sauce of eggy parmesan, finished with a generous shower of black pepper. Seek out the perciatelle con sarde, a Sicilian-style pasta tossed in a powerful blend of fennel, saffron, raisins, sardines, anchovy paste, and a crunch of toasted breadcrumbs. A trio of gelatos—pistachio, chocolate and bitter almond, served with biscotti—is a divine ending.