MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
The setting at Fumo is undeniably chic, with bright white walls, light wood tables and dark leather furnishings. A wood-fired pizza oven is in the back, while the front offers sidewalk seating under a protective awning. Attractive shelving lined with canned tomatoes frames the bar area and dining room. The menu offers Italian favorites, executed with a deft hand and solid ingredients. Pizzas are 12-inches and come rosso or bianco, topped with the likes of vodka sauce, wild mushrooms or charred vegetables. Excellent pastas, like the penne Caprese, are tossed with tomato sauce, fresh basil and creamy mozzarella. A neatly deboned, beautifully seasoned branzino arrives subtly flavored with fresh herbs and alongside wilted spinach as well as a lemon wedge.