Located in the midst of an unremarkable midtown block, dining at Café China is like taking a little trip into the pleasures of Sichuan cuisine. Decked out with portraits of 1930s Shanghai starlets, bright red chairs, bamboo planters and a marble-wood bar, this long and narrow space struggles with sporadic popularity. However, the kitchen continues to prepare classic dishes with great aplomb. An effortless contrast of complex flavors can be found in the dan dan noodles tossed with crumbles of fried pork, sliced green onion and their ever-pervasive chili oil. Then indulge in mustard green-fried rice best paired with braised Chungking fish stocked with bok choy, tofu and dried red chilies. Cumin lamb takes the cake thanks to its subtle heat and tender meat.