With black floors, stark white tables, and white chairs, Bellwether looks a little too cool for comfort, but don’t let that fool you. This friendly neighborhood spot is good for all hours and all crowds, backed by a talented kitchen that turns out comforting, seasonal dishes with flair in spades. Though appetizers like chilled oysters with tomato fresco or the heirloom carrots with herb-coconut yogurt certainly tempt, we’re all-in on the charred broccolini served with cilantro tahini, pickled carrots, and toasted sesame. Entrées pack in just as much flavor, like fork-tender pork cheeks paired with grilled pineapple and onion soubise.
Desserts are sizeable but just too easy to devour solo, like the glossy lemon tart with whipped cream and olive oil.