This West Broadway corner will be familiar to those who know their restaurants as it has hosted many a seminal establishment. Drew Nieporent’s Bâtard is no exception. Open since 2014, the cooking remains precise and accomplished under Executive Chef Doug Brixton. Seasonality is at the heart of the menu—evidenced by chilled cucumber and avocado soup or cured salmon with gribiche. You could make a meal out of the apps alone, if it's the duck ragù pappardelle with Calabrian chilies; or, hiding in the sides, cauliflower with garam masala yogurt. Cheese is a must, as is a wine from the French-heavy list, which is friendly to all budgets.
The stately room borders on minimalism, wrapped in patterned gold walls. A bar up front is a desired perch among regulars.