MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View

The space has long been home to some of TriBeCa's favorite restaurants and Bâtard is no exception. Chef Markus Glocker has been at the helm since the very beginning and he continues to impress with his contemporary European cooking that is noticeably influenced by his Austrian background and upbringing. Dishes are very precise and look quite delicate on the plate. But like a good featherweight they pack more of a punch than you’re expecting. You’ll discern his roots in such delightful preparations as the octopus terrine garnished with a slab of ham hock slathered in house-made mustard and dressed with pastrami spices. Narrow ribbons of tagliatelle arrive perfectly al dente and twirled into a neat cylinder, dressed with a mushroom-cream sauce and crowned by deliciously earthy shiitakes. A wedge of deep-green pistachio cake arranged with petals of caramelized pineapple, dusted with crushed brittle and donning a brown butter parfait makes a rich and nutty finale.  Thankfully, the space remains unchanged, comfortable and the atmosphere grown-up yet animated, filled no doubt with a bevy of regulars. Service often lacks coordination or direction, but you're here for the food, so don't fret.