239 West Broadway will be a familiar address to those who know their restaurants as it has hosted a number of seminal establishments—and Drew Nieporent’s Bâtard is no exception. The space is comfortable and streamlined, while the atmosphere feels grown-up and animated. When it comes to service, the well-appointed and smiling brigade glide about the room seamlessly. But really, everyone is here for the food—and that food is very good indeed. Chef Markus Glocker’s cooking is precise and his dishes look quite delicate on the plate. But like a good featherweight they pack more of a punch than you’re expecting. An umami-rich broth may arrive with beautifully shaped caramelle stuffed with shallots, herbs and morels; but, also consider the Arctic char, gently laid over a pool of caramelized onion soubise and accompanied by deep-fried asparagus. Completing the skills of this fine kitchen are such unexpected seasonal treats as an English pea parfait with rhubarb consommé and white asparagus. Discerning palates might even notice the chef's Austrian roots—as evidenced by the likes of short rib and tafelspitz terrine, or Granny Smith and sweetbread strudel.