As ageless as its beautiful patrons, the brassy and mirrored Balthazar should be called “quintessentially SoHo” because it invented the term. One of the benchmark brasseries from serial restaurateur Keith McNally, the attractive space is housed in a former tannery. Those whiffs of leather have been replaced by red awnings, scents of pastries and an excellent oyster-filled raw bar completing its Parisian transformation. It seems as though every other table is topped with their bestselling steak frites or Le Balthazar, that towering seafood feast and signature since the late 90s. On the delicate side, sautéed skate is served with sweet raisins and tart capers; while silky beef tartare with shallots, herbs and Worcestershire spreads just like butter.