Angel

There are some cuisines that would buckle under the demands of a vegetarian-only menu, but in Chef Amrit Pal Singh’s no-frills restaurant, plate after plate will demonstrate the real magic of going meatless. Singh, who grew up in Punjab, keeps his Indian menu small, unlike countless other kitchens in bustling Jackson Heights; and everything arrives hot out of the pan.
The signature order is dum biryani—of course—capped in a dome of golden-brown pastry and filled with fragrant basmati rice, ginger, caramelized onions, and peas. But best of all might be the house-made paneer khurchan that arrives with a dark, zesty curry of tomatoes and peppers. Like everything else accompanied by sauce, it’s an item that thrives over rice and eats even better the next day.