Its entrance is unassuming, but one step inside this vast arena—punctuated by natural hues, abstract art, and luxuriously spaced tables—and you'll find yourself enveloped in elegance. The best seats in the house are those with views of the open kitchen, where Chef Mari Katsumura and her team can be seen preparing and delivering thoughtfully composed meals.Begin with such crowning canapes as king crab with Japanese hollandaise or a texturally exquisite duo of both raw and fried seaweed coupled with creamed celery root. This may be tailed by luscious yellowtail sashimi; still warm Norwegian fjord trout; fluffly crab rice studded with confit egg yolk; or even okara agnolotti with wild huckleberries. Seal the regal meal with a plate of "Milk & Cookies" unveiling hōjicha ice cream that's covered in buttermilk foam and then topped with thin shards of crisp meringue as well as a thick swipe of caramelized milk.But wait, there's more. The wine list offers sake by the glass, including a trio of namazake (unpasteurized selections) to celebrate the arrival of spring. And speaking of inventive sips, cocktail fans should stop by Kaisho—the chic front bar room serving seasonal concoctions and light bites.