MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
Sabri Nihari outshines the restaurant competition on this crowded stretch of West Devon Avenue. Make your way inside the expansive and massively posh Indo-Pakistani spot, where crystal chandeliers make gold-hued walls gleam more brightly. As with many South Asian restaurants, vegetarian dishes abound-but that's only the beginning of the diverse menu. Whole okra pods add a grassy, peppery bite to beefy bhindi gosht, and delightful chicken charga, an entire spatchcocked bird marinated in yogurt and lime, is rubbed generously with spices before crisping up in the deep fryer. No alcohol is served in deference to many of the abstaining clientele, but you won't miss it. Buttery naan and creamy lassi with homemade yogurt help to balance out the spice-fest.