This prime Randolph Street corner is home to a one-two punch of Rick Bayless-ness—an excellent taqueria and brewery named Cruz Blanza as well as this sophisticated cantina. An open kitchen displaying open-fire cooking is Leña Brava’s stimulating focal point, while a buzzing bar pouring an encyclopedic range of agave spirits, brews from next door and rare Mexican wines enhances the bi-level scene. The kitchen’s Northern Mexican-influenced menu combines the bounty of the sea with the primal joy of wood-fired cooking. Be tempted by icy seafood preparations like an aquachile of sashimi-grade diver scallops in spiced cucumber juice. Then consider hearth-roasted black cod al pastor with sweet and sour pineapple, coupled with heirloom corn tortillas.