Kumiko is a luxe cocktail den with an array of seriously crafted bites. However, the stellar attraction is located downstairs, in a secreted away room, featuring deep blue walls as well as a dark stone, ten-seat counter. The team works behind this counter and in front of a backdrop of light wood shelving arranged with pottery, cookbooks, sparkling stemware, and vinyl records. The beverage program by Julia Momose is serious and highly recommended. Wine and sake are just the beginning, with cocktails raised to a level of artistry here. Several pairings are on offer to accompany the omakase, including a spiritless selection that may lack alcohol but certainly not creativity. Diners can look forward to a seven-course menu that flirts with Japanese technique, ingredients and flavors, but the unbridled omakase is really designed to enhance the carefully curated drinks list. Get started on sashimi and a few nigiri before moving on to such inventive items as house-made tofu with ramps, pickled green almonds, and an intense dashi. Seared mackerel may be dressed with kombu sabayon, just as A5 Miyazaki Wagyu over nori rice is luxuriously embellished with beef fat hollandaise.