From its glass-enclosed corner spot on a quiet stretch of River North to the open floor plan that will have you spying what's on the tables of other guests, Entente may have refreshed its location with new digs, but the signature culinary spirit remains intact. The kitchen weaves together Indian, Thai, and Vietnamese cuisines in a very convincing and playful way. They never dial down the intensity—one bite of the fluke buried under fresh passionfruit granita and curry powder and you'll soon be hip to their style. Each dish delivers a remarkable mouthful, and most of the kitchen's creations are rich, as well as unexpected. Foie gras served with warm banana bread and cocoa nibs is decadently delicious; seared scallop and roe served with yuzu curd and a palate-cleansing citrus salad is bright and clever; and monkfish set in a Benton's bacon broth hits the mark with balanced flavors. It's a steady stream of hits all the way to dessert. Thai iced tea, served as a panna cotta with coconut pop rocks, fingerlime sorbet, and meringue, shows off their flair for whimsy, but that mango panna cotta with Thai-basil granita and charred Japanese sushi rice is a complete and utter showstopper.