This table continues its reign as a stylish setting for rustic Italian cooking. Whether waking up with brunch, snacking at aperitivo hour, or filling up at the bar with the $25 trio, there’s an excuse to stop in for any occasion or budget. While the service may not always be the most welcoming, seasonal dishes are well executed and represented throughout the menu. Here, a wood-burning oven turns out a range of pizzas as well as mains, such as grilled branzino topped with lightly dressed salad greens and shaved radish. Half-portion pastas are available for the less ravenous, like spaghetti cacio e pepe with Tellicherry peppercorns and parmesan.
End with a bit of sweet—as in the Tuscan torta della nonna with baby pine nuts coating a vanilla-custard pie.