This corner bar on Randolph Street’s restaurant row may be dim, but it’s got a few glittering edges. The reel-to-reel in the doorway lends a retro feel, but the rest is decidedly cushy. Good thing too, since patrons often wait up to two hours just to snag a seat here. Bartenders work just as hard as line cooks until the wee hours. Burgers are all the (overhyped) rage here, but leave them to the masses and order chilaquiles or the 32-ounce pork Porterhouse. This kitchen puts a highfalutin spin on simple dishes: think foie gras folded into scrambled eggs and house-made sausages for bologna sandwiches that go beyond a kid’s wildest dreams. The crispy fries with Mornay sauce and garlic aïoli topped with a fried egg are a good bet no matter the time of day.