ERH

The initials E, R and H stand for water, rice and men in French (eau, riz, hommes): a mysterious and poetic name for this unusual place that shares its premises with a sake shop and a whisky bar. Japanese chef Keita Kitamura (previously of Pierre Gagnaire, among others) creates beautifully crafted market-fresh French cuisine that gives pride of place to vegetables and fish. At lunchtime he serves up some impressive culinary treats for a bargain price (three- or five-course set menus); in the evening, he composes tasting menus in line with the seasons. You might like to opt for food and sake pairings. Diners take their seats in an amazing contemporary space with a large glass roof and a long counter that stretches out in front of the open kitchen, where, as in Japan, the Japanese chef officiates. This is the place to try between the Halles and Montorgueil districts. Such talent, such character!