Tucked between two other establishments with no visible sign, Expendio de Maíz invites diners to take a seat at one of four long tables arranged under the covered sidewalk. While there are no reservations, there are a number of seatings, with guests placing their name on the list for the next round. This novel concept offers no food menu; instead, each course is presented as a surprise, one-by-one, until you confirm that you have had your fill. The team sends forth a range of impressively executed plates such as a warm, tender, and crisped yellow masa huarache topped with a thin slice of braised beef along with avocado, cherry tomatoes, queso blanco, and a scattering of lightly dressed young greens. The accompanying salsa is worth slathering on any and all preparations.