“Tesse” is French slang for charcuterie, and sure enough, you’ll find an impressive lineup of terrines, rillettes and artisanal sausages at this stylish restaurant. And though the cured meats program is integral to its spirit, this kitchen spins out an array of contemporary dishes as well, with careful attention to classical details and masterful contemporary flourishes. The chefs make daily treks to LA's various farmers' markets for seasonal produce. Blue crab simplissime marries whipped potato and tarragon with reduced crab stock and Cognac; while bone marrow-roasted over the wood fire-is tossed with bucatini, duck prosciutto and shallots for a rich and delightfully balanced plate. The carefully procured wine list offers numerous bottles by the glass.