MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View

Classy but casual, this Italian restaurant and wine shop is a Kensington neighborhood stalwart. You won’t need to noodle over the menu, as the kitchen’s forte is pasta. Grab a seat at the famous counter and watch them turn out orders by hand. Begin with a plate of crispy fried potato gnocchi tots with house-made ketchup. Then take your pick from a spectrum of seasonal creations, such as tagliatelle with pistachio pesto, peas and pickled celery. But that's not all-gnocchetti Sardi tossed with spicy pork sausage, broccoli rabe and tomato in a sage- and brown butter-sauce is the very essence of comfort. While carbs rule the roost here, this kitchen also delivers other hits like octopus a la plancha served with grapes and soppressata for a zesty mix.