MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
There may be no more pleasurable place to learn about kappo-style cuisine, which has only recently made inroads into the American dining scene, than this stellar Japanese dining counter. The latter is crafted from a centuries-old cypress tree, set before chefs grating wasabi and a backdrop of amber-hued whisky. While the décor feels minimalist, surrounded by an industrial edge of soaring concrete ceilings and exposed pipes, service is wonderfully engaging and attentive, with thorough explanations of each unique course. À la carte is offered, but the multi-course kappo-style is the best way to experience this kitchen's creations. Dishes bring together a unique range of inspired Japanese flavors, but equal attention is given to texture and artistic presentations. Fixed menus here present a progression of courses selected by the chefs, which may include a few raw dishes. Highlights reveal an innovative "true chicken teriyaki" that has been dried and rehydrated to render enticingly chewy results. A bowl of California rice with favas, peas and shiso makes for a delicious prelude to Holstein steak topped with spicy wasabi and diced pickled plum that's been aged for four years.