Secreted away in The Gallery Food Hall, finding this tricky location can feel like an adventure, albeit a glorious one. Just exit the elevator on the second floor and head for the first door on the left. The small interior is bright and noisy, warmed by the open kitchen as well as Chef Dave Beran’s commentary and insights into his cooking. There are banquettes, but a seat at the counter provides a view into the action and preparation of intricate plates. The suited servers are well coordinated and friendly.
Overall, this cuisine's vision and meticulous plating feels veritably unconfined, as it glides seamlessly from modernism to Japanese fare. The cooking, guided by a purposeful weaving of flavors between courses, exudes inspiration from start to finish.
The kitchen is particularly adept in its delicately steamed lobster with béarnaise covered in nasturtium. An effort to show seasonal flavors can seem daring in a city not known for its autumn foliage, yet this is handled with wit and talent, through a dish of “fallen leaves” served on a square "plate" of dried birch bark and arranged with fried sweetbreads. Olive oil custard with fresno chili and burnt orange "dots" is wondrous.