MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View

An air of refinement touches this dining room—note the massive Murano chandelier, the stylish guests and everything in between. No wonder this is where affluent tourists and locals alike come to celebrate their special occasions. From the moment the champagne cart arrives at your table to the last bite of the guéridon’s mignardises, the service is perfectly timed and attentive. Following suit, the room is as lovely as ever, allowing more space for private parties. There was a time when Quince was home to traditional cooking, but Chef Michael Tusk’s menu is increasingly contemporary. Thin strands of zucchini “noodles” are intertwined with strips of cool and tender squid in a refreshing composition, while a “lasagne” arrives as a square of squab liver layered with greens, accompanied by a piece of medium-rare breast meat and a morel mushroom stuffed with perfect squab mousse. Milk-fed lamb, prepared as a seared chop, braised shoulder and crisped belly, makes for a particularly delightful trio. That mignardise cart is a sight to behold with its dazzling array of diminutive treats, such as the kouign amann, filled with huckleberry jam, as well as macarons, chocolates and nougats.