MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
This handsome stallion is certainly a feather in the cap of the inviting, if slightly sleepy, Saratoga. There has been a Plumed Horse in this spot since 1952, though this decade-old iteration is by far the best. The décor inside exudes warmth, first in the fireplace-warmed lounge, then in the stunning dining room, with its arched barrel ceiling. From shimmering Venetian plaster to striking chandeliers that emit a colorful glow, these rich details create a sensational backdrop that is at once elegant and comfortable. The kitchen turns out modern and upscale cooking with an Asian bent. Duck consommé, poured tableside and enhanced with meaty mushrooms as well as a bright English pea flan, is as impressive to the eye as it is to the palate. Locally sourced abalone is finished with XO sauce for a pop of flavor, while the decadent black pepper- and parmesan-soufflé accompanied by a delicate petal of uni is of the dive-right-in variety. Almond cake with cocoa-nib mousse and orange foam is delightful, but wait until those chocolates arrive. Wheeled over in a glass-domed cart with row-upon-row of beauties from Chocolaterie by Angelica, they are nothing less than exquisite.