MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
After moving to the Financial District, Chef Nicolas Delaroque has succeeded in ensuring that this contemporary French bistro does not miss a beat. The new, petite dining room is polished and sophisticated but not stuffy, combining brown leather banquettes and exposed brick with a backlit white marble bar. Find the best seats towards the immaculate, white-tiled open kitchen located in the back. The choice of four- or six-course dinner menus changes frequently, promising that each dish showcases peak-season ingredients. The three-course lunch menu is well priced and sure to attract business diners. No matter the time of day, this all translates into tremendous value for such expertly prepared cuisine. À la carte dining is offered only at the bar, serving simpler fare like oysters or a croque monsieur. Everything is perfectly cooked and seasoned, beginning with lightly poached white asparagus with thin slices of chilled foie gras, trout roe and lemon. Freshly shelled peas with spring onion, clams and smoked cod custard combine acidity, creaminess and incredible flavors. Delectable desserts have included apricot confit on almond crumble with refreshing bay leaf-ice cream.