MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View

The breadth and complexity of Indian cuisine gets its due at this tasteful retreat, tucked into a posh hotel just steps from the luxury boutiques of Union Square. Attired in a soft palette of cream and white, with a striking central glass light fixture, it's a smooth showcase for the freewheeling, colorful food from Chef Srijith Gopinathan. Diners have a choice of vegetarian or omnivorous dishes from the six-course tasting—with an extravagant add-on of white truffle naan for the high rollers in the room. Either way, you’ll be sent on a riotous journey through different textures, flavors and temperatures, along with some truly whimsical plating. Whether it’s a pea-shoot “flowerpot” with quinoa soil or a frozen stone bearing persimmon-kulfi popsicles, the chef's panache is sure to garner wide smiles. That's not to discount this kitchen's exceptional use of flavors as relished in the butter-poached lobster dressed with a coastal curry derived from the chef's grandmother's recipe, or the crisp dosa matched perfectly with a filling of sweet day boat scallops. Cauliflower roasted on charcoal with tomato tokku, kohlrabi and yogurt paired with fluffy kallappam makes for yet another high point.