Live fire is of the essence at this high-ceilinged and elegantly appointed dining room. Exposed brick walls ringed by celadon-green banquettes, rustic hardwood floors, and a stunning open kitchen with emerald, turquoise, and jade hues are some of the decorative touches; while hanging meats, bones, and that spire of smoke above the coals lend an inviting, lodge-chic feel.

Chef Christopher Bleidorn's particular skill lies in his ability to combine the rugged appeal of flame-kissed meats with a delicate touch and palpable sense of whimsy. For proof, look no further than the lacquered quail with grilled Parker House rolls and crunchy pickles to be assembled by hand à la Peking duck. His team demonstrates an impressive variety of techniques that wring out every fleck of flavor from such pristine ingredients as creek trout, presented as roe with kelp kombucha sabayon; "tail end" lox served on crispy skin; as well as cedar-cooked loin with a jus made from the bones.

The meal's playful and spontaneous spirit carries on until the very end—with the possible arrival of tart blueberries and silky crème fraîche hidden beneath a bee pollen-dusted tuile and bites of chewy lemon mochi.