MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View

The front windows are stacked with logs, dried fish hangs from the rafters and the dining room is gently scented with wood smoke, but lofty ceilings and a contemporary aura make Birdsong feel lumberjack-chic. While Chef Christopher Bleidorn prides himself on live-fire cooking and using every part of the animal, he’s still attuned to creature comforts, including a restful color scheme, gorgeous earthenware, elegant stemware and a staff that's as sharp as a well-made axe. The funky 80s rock music in the background certainly helps preserve a laid-back vibe. His tasting menu underlines the cuisine of the Pacific Northwest, with a deeper emphasis on the intense flavors of wood fire. Perfectly grilled lamb-stuffed mushrooms are standouts, accompanied by the likes of custardy blue-corn bread matched with charcoal butter. The chef also flaunts immense skill with dehydrated and cured ingredients, transforming humble carrots into a tender, “meaty” marvel, or wrapping a cylinder of crisp pork belly around luscious caviar and chives for an enticing blast of flavor. Even desserts get their turn in the embers: brioche soaked in jasmine custard is rich and moist, with deliciously caramelized edges.