The front windows are stacked with logs, dried fish hangs from the rafters and the dining room is gently scented with wood smoke, but lofty ceilings and a contemporary aura make Birdsong feel lumberjack-chic. While Chef Christopher Bleidorn prides himself on live-fire cooking and using every part of the animal, he’s still attuned to creature comforts, including a restful color scheme, gorgeous earthenware, elegant stemware and a staff that's as sharp as a well-made axe. The funky 80s rock music in the background certainly helps preserve a laid-back vibe. His tasting menu underlines the cuisine of the Pacific Northwest, with a deeper emphasis on the intense flavors of wood fire. Perfectly grilled lamb-stuffed mushrooms are standouts, accompanied by the likes of custardy blue-corn bread matched with charcoal butter. The chef also flaunts immense skill with dehydrated and cured ingredients, transforming humble carrots into a tender, “meaty” marvel, or wrapping a cylinder of crisp pork belly around luscious caviar and chives for an enticing blast of flavor. Even desserts get their turn in the embers: brioche soaked in jasmine custard is rich and moist, with deliciously caramelized edges.