Like many a success story these days, Avery began as a pop-up before taking up brick-and-mortar residence. Its ambitious menu pays homage to Chef/co-owner Rodney Wages' experience at some of the city’s elite kitchens: elements of smoke, for instance, are a signature move as is the influence of Asian ingredients.
There is no menu to speak of—it's a set price paid in advance—but it's a good value for the highly original seven courses that flaunt a blend of global inflections. Your meal may include such hits as lightly grilled oysters accompanied by a buckwheat tart, layered with smoked dried tomato cream, salmon mousse and eggs; or Tokyo turnips with an umami-rich paste and mushroom slivers. Gently poached duck egg yolk with potato mousseline hits the ball out of the park, thanks to its buttery flavor and texture; and may be tailed by a simple-sounding tortellini al brodo that is anything but basic. Lamb with stuffed cabbage, okra and dried ferns is a hearty main, but really it is items like mussels with chicken dumplings that display the wild creativity this kitchen unleashes on a nightly basis.
Champagne and sake are a particular focus and pairings are a great way to imbibe.