MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
Sushi aficionados may have to look a little harder to discover this jewel box, hidden among a host of high-end boutiques. Sushi Ginza Onodera may have outposts around the world, but its fame has not diluted the exemplary quality of this cuisine. That said, it comes with a hefty price tag, though their strictly enforced no-tipping policy certainly helps. Notable attention is also given to the light-filled space, resplendent with Japanese elegance; and the knowledgeable staff is just as pleasing and impressive as the meal itself. Fish of this caliber is not easy to find and the kitchen gives each morsel the painstaking care it deserves. Surprises and delights abound in the delirious array of courses, starting with an earthenware cup of chawanmushi topped with Italian caviar and a petal of uni. Some might feel guilty devouring squid in a matter of seconds after watching the exacting chefs take ten minutes to prepare it, but the experience is utterly memorable. The nigiri are a clear highlight here, revealing tiger shrimp with miso, sea perch seared for a hint of smoke as well as a duo of anago with shanso and yuzu zest. The signature matcha- and coconut-panna cotta is a delectable finale.