True to its name, this dark, intimate space is sealed off from the strip mall outside—but when it comes to its reputation for a showy, immersive experience, the secret is certainly out. In the care of Chef Marcos Juarez, this 18-seat counter offers only two services each night and features a wide array of premium seafood prepared with a unique approach that bucks tradition. Think masu with jicama and pumpkin seed furikake or Hokkaido uni with tomato jam and Thai basil. Chefs happily engage with diners and regularly present whole cuts of fish for demonstrations.