The name is a tribute to the founder of this modest eatery, which opened in the late 1940s. It has since morphed into a pleasant contemporary bistro in the capable hands of an enthusiastic young couple who are no strangers to the business. Originally from the Deux-Sèvres, the chef fell in love with the Basque Country and its produce; he has made game his speciality in season. On this occasion, though, we were treated to an onion, tomato and pepper compote tart, followed by a hake steak with basil pesto and extra virgin oil, and a nectarine coulis with crème diplomate and meringue.