Relaxing and stylish for grown-ups, Periyali serves the kind of straightforward Greek cooking that remains blissfully unconcerned with trends. Think grilled octopus is boring? Think again, when presented with charcoal-grilled morsels, marinated for two days in red wine and finished with olive oil and parsley sauce. Salmon may not be native to Greece, but it gets its due respect here, wrapped with herbs and baked in phyllo, served alongside stewed okra. A puréed dish of fava kremidaki showcases a terrific blend of textures, colors and flavors that is the heart and soul of this rustic kitchen.
The dining room echoes the culinary theme with a suspended wall of shimmering decorative fish, abundant flower arrangements, and a back room flooded with natural light.