No playful pun, no name-check for grandma—whoever christened this restaurant clearly wanted to attract a certain clientele. This is not the place where you should order by pointing vaguely at the menu—that way lies trouble as you may have to remortgage your home to pay for the 250 grams of Osetra caviar you’ve just inadvertently requested. Diners, however, will be pleased to discover they now offer more affordable options, like the $60 Pacific sturgeon.
On the menu, contemporary dishes show surprising delicacy with a pleasing bias for seafood. You get buzzed in at street level, which adds a bit of mystery to proceedings. Up the stairs and you're inside a lavish jewel box. The only thing missing is James Bond’s nemesis drumming his fingers on the table.