If you’re searching for the essence of Galician cuisine, make sure you book a table at “Ceibe”, an adjective that describes someone “who is able to choose and manage the way they act and think”. The escabeches and pickled and marinaded dishes on offer here are the signature of this restaurant close to the cathedral, in which the striking and traditional stone walls combine with a minimalist look and a kitchen that is very much part of the dining room. Here, Lydia del Olmo and Xosé Magalhaes are keen to ensure that that guests are able to see everything that happens, as part of an interesting culinary journey across Galicia that includes flavoursome main dishes and desserts that Lydia has “borrowed” from her grandmother. The two tasting menus (Enxebre and Esmorga) have close ties with the local terroir and both start with a traditional “queimada” – a typical Galician drink.