In our regular series, we ask famous chefs and personalities to tell us all about 'their London'. From top tips on where to dine in the city, to their personal haunts ranging from bakeries to book shops, we’ve got the inside track on London’s premier spots from the people who know it best.
There’s nobody in London cooking quite like Rafael Cagali. Just take his signature ‘moqueca’ for example, where a staple Brazilian dish is reinvigorated by a strikingly creative streak. It’s indicative of Cagali’s food, which has earned him Two MICHELIN Stars at Da Terra – an exquisite restaurant which stands out from the crowd by being located in east London’s Bethnal Green, inside the Town Hall Hotel. Here, he tells us all about his favourite neighbourhoods and how he sees the London dining scene of today.
Which London restaurants are perfect for a night out with friends?
When I’m with friends, BiBi is a great destination: warm atmosphere, good pace and great food.
Which great London restaurant do you think has gone under the radar?
Claude Bosi at Bibendum. A meal there is always solid.Where do you go for a quick bite?
Pubs are great for a quick bite. I’m looking forward to going to The Knave of Clubs in Shoreditch.What’s your go-to restaurant in London when you want to celebrate?
For an intimate celebration, I would go for drinks at The Connaught Bar, then eat at Hélène Darroze at The Connaught. The team there know how to make a special occasion really special, taking care of the guests.
What's your favourite thing about working in Bethnal Green, in east London, when a lot of other top restaurants are based more centrally?
We’re not surrounded by too many restaurants, and it’s nice to have a restaurant like Da Terra in this part of town so that the focus is spread out across the city. We are in Zone 2 so it’s very easy to get to. Shoreditch and The City are just a few stops away and there are great places to eat well around this part of town.Are there any London restaurants you feel a personal connection to?
Well, I can only say Da Terra, of course – it’s my baby!
Do you have a favourite sustainable spot in the city?
I will say Silo. It’s in east London, so out of the usual areas for fine dining, and completely zero waste. What they set up, cooking without any discard or waste, can be a real challenge and can even scare many. But the fact they are doing it is an inspiration and proof that, yes, it can be difficult and forces us out of our comfort zone, but it’s absolutely possible.Do you have a favourite London hotel?
I have a soft spot for Claridge’s, from when I was working there with Simon Rogan. But my favourite has to be Rosewood. Everywhere there is a Rosewood, it's classy and they understand the location. I also love Scarfes Bar.
How do you like to spend your free time in London?
For the past seven years I have been living in Essex but it's so close and easy to get to central London on the Elizabeth Line, so I like to walk around Soho, then places like the South Bank, which is a bit touristy but really nice. London has so much to see – exploring and discovering new spots reminds me how much I love this city. I also enjoy trying new coffee shops.
If you had one day to show an out-of-towner around London, where would you take them?
If we have a good day available, I will show them different parts of the city. Notting Hill, for a stroll and a trip to Sumi, and then to South Kensington – that area is so full of options, from museums to restaurants. Then, I’d head north to the River Thames and also Coal Drops Yard in King’s Cross is a great new redevelopment that is changing that side of town. And to finish, a stroll in Victoria Park: a wide green space, in east London.
How would you characterise the London food scene of today?
This multicultural city is fascinating when it comes to food. We are seeing a shift towards more casual, accessible meals. I think there is still a great appetite for fine dining; we see it and hear it from our guests. People come to us for special occasions, celebrations, treats – knowing they’ll get an experience like no other. But there is also an increased demand for the other option: more relaxed, casual alternatives, places that still offer great produce and well-executed dishes, but they are open for walk-ins and the diners can leave after a short time or stay there chatting over some nibbles.Address Book
Coal Drops Yard, Stable St, London, N1C 4LWThe Knave of Clubs, 25 Bethnal Grn Rd, London, E1 6HT
Upper Street, London, N1 2TZ
Victoria Park, Grove Rd, London, E3 5TB
Hero Image: Rafael Cagali from Da Terra restaurant. © Matheus Luz Cagali