Shinichi Sato had already made a name for himself at Passage 53. In his new restaurant, beneath a corolla vault of interwoven wooden slats, a circular dining room provides a plush yet minimalist setting. The starting point is top-quality produce, which is enhanced by means of painstaking technical skill, an almost surgical attention to detail and zero compromise: stracciatella of sea urchins from Finistère and kombu jelly; monkfish in ginger and artichoke; onions with Bellota chorizo… Burgundies feature prominently on the remarkable wine list and there is a fine selection of whiskies that can be sampled at the bar.