The talented Sam Lawrence is off to an impressive start with this welcome restaurant in the heart of Chinatown. The warm, amber-toned dining room possesses the ease and comfort of a bistro, while the kitchen cooks with noteworthy levels of drive and ambition. The tight menu is sparse on words and doesn’t fit neatly into the box of any one cuisine but know that inspiration and originality are in proper supply. A smooth sea urchin custard topped with shrimp tartare segues nicely into perfectly grilled sweetbreads that rival the very best in town. Finish with fireworks: Velvety-smooth vin jaune gelato matched with passionfruit is an unexpected thriller that, much like the restaurant, has all the makings of a classic. Service is both relaxed and attentive.