新德里里拉宫殿酒店（The Leela Palace New Delhi）

We’re not surveyors by trade; we don’t normally travel with distance measuring wheels or clinometers. But we do feel safe making the following claim about Leela Palace, even without the benefit of precision instruments: this place is ginormous. Then again, New Delhi itself is no little village, so a great rectangle of a hotel fits the scene perfectly.

It sits like a present, waiting to be unwrapped by those arriving for business or pleasure, minus a bow on top. Within, delights abound. We’ll begin with those of the edible variety, from the Qube, framed in glass, with its mix of local and international dishes, to Megu, a temple devoted to all things Japanese, to the handmade wooden accents and equally crafted biryanis and curries at Jamavar to the first Asian outpost of Le Cirque.

But a discriminating hotel guest cannot survive on good food alone. Accommodations more than live up to the challenge of the soaring, multistoried lobby, featuring mirror televisions and significant lighting in all the bathrooms, as well as grand beds and far-ranging views. Also worth noting is the sheer size of the rooms and suites. We heard that these are some of the biggest rooms in the city, and we’re in no position to argue. Then again size isn’t everything. Anyone can build big, but only some can provide this generous an admixture of experience and focused attention.