When it comes to dining destinations in Asia, Bangkok is right up there with the likes of Singapore, Hong Kong and Japan. Best loved for its wide array of street food offerings and bold spicy flavours, the capital city of Thailand has also, in recent years, become home to many top chefs from around the world.
“Bangkok is a bubbling and delicious cauldron. You have local Thai chefs who worked everywhere in the world. Then there are westerners who want to escape to Thailand. There’s a buzz, an energy about it all coming together,” says David Thompson, chef-owner of Nahm in Bangkok.
In fact, come 6 Dec, the vibrant city will have its very first MICHELIN guide. The prestigious red book has graced southeast Asian cities such as Hong Kong and Singapore, and is now setting the Thai food scene abuzz with speculations on who will make the list.
Chef Ton, who helms the kitchens of two of the most exciting restaurants in Bangkok, Le Du and Baan
“If I say im not excited about the Michelin guide launching in Bangkok, it would be a lie. There is a buzz among chefs in Bangkok now. You know, some chefs, they like the idea, some don’t but everyone is excited. Every chef, no matter what their opinion is, would not say no to a star. Everyone, deep inside, would want it,” says chef Thitid Tassanakajohn, also known as Ton. The young chef helms two of the most exciting restaurants in Bangkok, Le Du and Baan.
To be sure, the city is no stranger to awards. San Pellegrino’s 50 Best list, for instance, has helped put restaurants such as Nahm, Gaggan, Restaurant Suhring and Le Du on the international map.
“Dining awards in Bangkok really started to bloom not so long ago. We remember when we arrived 10 years ago, there was not such a big number of different awards,” says Mathias Suhring, co-founder of Restaurant Suhring with his twin brother Thomas.
“It grants restaurants an exposure that helps them to evolve with the city. And it contributes to the competitive spirit that makes restaurants strive to achieve better each year,” he continues.
For seasoned chefs like Gaggan Anand, he believes that the launch of Bangkok’s first MICHELIN guide is more stressful for the inspectors and the red book, rather than himself.
“If I was a new restaurateur and a younger more ambitious chef I would be very, very nervous. The stress is on the Michelin side, not mine – if they come up with a fair list, they’ll be judged,” says Gaggan.
One thing all chefs hope for, though, is that the inspectors will base their selection with an in-depth recognition of Asian culture.
“The MICHELIN guide has always been a trusty restaurant recommendation for travellers ever since 1900,” says Suhring. “We hope that Michelin will look for restaurant that contributes to the diversity of Bangkok culinary scene as we think it is one of the strength of this city,” he continues.
The arrival of the 2018 MICHELIN guide Bangkok is also set to shine the spotlight on Bangkok’s growing fine-dining scene, which has only recently started to blossom. “People now are more open to fine-dining. Not just locals, but also tourists are more willing to come to Bangkok and eat in restaurants rather than just street food,” says chef Thon.
“Now, when I tell diners this fish is from this local fisherman from a certain region, they get excited. Before, it would be: “Do you have salmon?”
Chef Ton's interpretation of traditional Thai mango sticky rice.
“I think with the MICHELIN guide, more chefs will dare to open their own restaurants, rather than working for other people because now they know there’s recognition, there’s a higher chance of survival,” says chef Ton.
Gaggan sums it up: “Michelin will bring to light all these heroes of unsung songs, unsung music – chefs and restaurants who were not noticed will suddenly come into notice.”
Written by
Meryl Koh
Meryl Koh is former Digital Associate Editor with the Michelin Guide Singapore. The former magazine writer has reported on food as well as the luxury sector, and is equally fascinated talking to hawkers or CEOs. Her hunger for heart-felt connections and breaking stories is fuelled by a good cup of kopi-C, occasionally spiked with a shot of whisky.
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