Returning for its fifth Singapore edition is one of the most prominent wine events of the year, Matter Of Taste. To be held on 24 and 25 August at the Regent Singapore, A Four Seasons Hotel’s Royal Pavilion Ballroom, Robert Parker Wine Advocate’s annual showcase will be a celebration of the world’s best wines in a series of wine dinners, masterclasses and five hours of unlimited wine tasting during Saturday’s walkabout at noon.
Hosting the masterclasses and dinners are visiting wine critics from the Wine Advocate: Joe Czerwinski, who covers Australia, New Zealand, Rhône and the South of France, and Erin Brooks, who covers Oregon state in the US, where some of the world’s most interesting pinot noirs and chardonnays are made.
Brooks is a certified sommelier and wine journalist, having spent a decade working the floors of some of the most revered Michelin-rated restaurants in the US, including chef Thomas Keller’s Bouchon Bistro, La Toque and three-Michelin-starred The Restaurant at Meadowood as restaurant manager, sommelier and wine director. Her restaurant experience and journalism background have culminated in her role at The Wine Advocate where she reviews wines from the cradle of American pinot noirs and chardonnays.
We chat with her to find out what a day in the life of a wine critic tastes like and explore the exciting wine scene that is the Willamette Valley in Oregon.
What does a day in the life of a Wine Advocate reviewer look like?
What I love best about working as a reviewer is that every day is different. Some days I spend at my computer, writing articles and tasting notes. Sometimes I taste wines at the Napa office; other days I spend visiting wineries and vineyards and speaking with winemakers. On a given day, I might taste one flight of wines or 10 flights of wines.
What does a day in the life of a Wine Advocate reviewer look like?
What I love best about working as a reviewer is that every day is different. Some days I spend at my computer, writing articles and tasting notes. Sometimes I taste wines at the Napa office; other days I spend visiting wineries and vineyards and speaking with winemakers. On a given day, I might taste one flight of wines or 10 flights of wines.
As a wine reviewer, Brooks spends her days visiting wineries and speaking to winemakers like Pat Dudley (pictured) of Bethel Heights. (Pic: Erin Brooks)
I spend my days writing, editing, visiting wineries and putting my hard-earned tasting skills to work evaluating wines for consumers. My role at this publication brings together my two great loves — writing and wine — and I can’t think of anything more satisfying.
What do we need to know about Oregon wines?
Oregon is not Burgundy. I’d like to see writers and sommeliers stop relying on this comparison. Oregon and Burgundy share the same two grape varieties and the same general latitude — beyond that, they’re completely different.
Savvy consumers will be cognisant of the potential for great chardonnay in Oregon. I was stunned by the quality of the chardonnays crafted by producers like Bethel Heights, Goodfellow, Walter Scott and others. It should also come as no surprise that Oregon is an exciting frontier for sparkling wines produced in the traditional method from pinot noir and chardonnay grapes.
What do we need to know about Oregon wines?
Oregon is not Burgundy. I’d like to see writers and sommeliers stop relying on this comparison. Oregon and Burgundy share the same two grape varieties and the same general latitude — beyond that, they’re completely different.
Savvy consumers will be cognisant of the potential for great chardonnay in Oregon. I was stunned by the quality of the chardonnays crafted by producers like Bethel Heights, Goodfellow, Walter Scott and others. It should also come as no surprise that Oregon is an exciting frontier for sparkling wines produced in the traditional method from pinot noir and chardonnay grapes.
Some bottles from Oregon winery Goodfellow (Pic: Erin Brooks)
What do you love most about the wines from Oregon?
The best examples of pinot noir and chardonnay from Oregon have the ability to express many different layers in the same glass: fruit, earth, spice and minerality. Most wines can easily be classified as either earthy or fruity. Oregon wines strike a beautiful balance between both. Some of my favourite producers include Eyrie, Goodfellow, Walter Scott, Bethel Heights, Sequitur and Minimus.
What are some of the trends you have been observing about this wine region?
Grape growers and winemakers in Oregon are beginning to discover their own terroir in more depth, which is beautiful to see. There’s plenty of clonal experimentation going on and a concerted effort to find the most appropriate sites for a given grape or clone, an effort that’s especially apparent with chardonnay.
The best examples of pinot noir and chardonnay from Oregon have the ability to express many different layers in the same glass: fruit, earth, spice and minerality. Most wines can easily be classified as either earthy or fruity. Oregon wines strike a beautiful balance between both. Some of my favourite producers include Eyrie, Goodfellow, Walter Scott, Bethel Heights, Sequitur and Minimus.
What are some of the trends you have been observing about this wine region?
Grape growers and winemakers in Oregon are beginning to discover their own terroir in more depth, which is beautiful to see. There’s plenty of clonal experimentation going on and a concerted effort to find the most appropriate sites for a given grape or clone, an effort that’s especially apparent with chardonnay.
Oregon's official state soil is Jory soil, a basalt-based, nutrient-rich volcanic soil. (Pic: Erin Brooks)
What are you looking forward to at the Matter Of Taste 2018 in Singapore?
I’m very much looking forward to learning about the fine wine market in Singapore and meeting consumers there face-to-face. It’s always fascinating to discover the inner workings of a new fine wine market. I’m also very excited to taste all the wines available at the Grand Walkabout Tasting. Discovering new wines never ceases to be a thrill.
I’m very much looking forward to learning about the fine wine market in Singapore and meeting consumers there face-to-face. It’s always fascinating to discover the inner workings of a new fine wine market. I’m also very excited to taste all the wines available at the Grand Walkabout Tasting. Discovering new wines never ceases to be a thrill.
