Spy C Cuisine

It’s easy to miss the front door of this Sichuan restaurant among the street’s many window displays, but what a shame that would be. Everyone should start with the cold cucumbers, which are tossed in oil steeped in numbing peppercorns, brightened with vinegar and soy and spiced with dried red chilies. They are singularly excellent. The rest of the menu careens and roams around familiar Americanized offerings and a build-your-own dry pot, but diners should narrow in on chef’s signature dishes. Stir-fried lamb aggressively seasoned with cumin, fish fillets sauced with fermented black beans and garnished with green onions, and pea shoots expertly sautéed with slivers of garlic are just some of the highlights turned out of this speedy kitchen.