Mao Mao

With corrugated metal walls, movie posters, and no solid tables to speak of, this bi-level gem looks nothing like a restaurant. In fact, lecture-hall seats, garden lights, and action flicks projected onto a wall create a kitschy feel. But in the end, there is no denying the quality of its cuisine. Think real-deal Thai, with heat that verges on ferocious and flavoring that never ends. Fried chicken laab arrives with herbs; while tilapia is dressed with an electrifying mix of lime, chili, and garlic. Northern-style beef is cooked in a warming broth with tripe, liver, and Sichuan peppercorn.
The music is loud at first, but eventually you'll find yourself eating along to the beats, wondering how much more heat you can handle, and plotting your return for more.