In the shadow of the New York Public Library, Chef Keiji Nakazawa exemplifies mastery of the highest order. An omakase like no other, the progression ebbs and flows with a dazzling variety of fish, shellfish, vegetables, and more—all aged, fermented, and pickled for weeks, months, and sometimes years. Rice is treated with reverence; seasoned to suit and complement the range of fish. The setting is its own marvel and features a spacious, eight-seat Hinoki counter flanked by towering ice boxes fronted with carved wood doors, while all around, the kitchen and service teams work in perfect tandem. In total, the pace, breadth, and persistence of excellence that unfolds here will impress even the most experienced sushi enthusiasts.